V&A - Christian Dior Exhibition
When I found out that the V&A would be hosting the Christian Dior Exhibition until the 1st September, I knew I had to go. Great, plenty of time I thought… but no, it had quickly sold out. I cursed the damn people who clearly had nothing better to do but sit at their computer and purchase all the tickets. I was feeling bitter like a grumpy old lady until… I found a loophole that allowed me to attend the exhibition.
If you sign up for the V&A membership of £79 yearly (really good deal FYI), you can attend any sold-out exhibitions, including the much sought-after Dior one. Plus you can upgrade to the membership that includes one guest for £109, which is exactly what I did. Monsieur Dior, here I come!
I knew going on a weekend would be a gamble, and decided to go around the 11am mark to avoid the crowds as much as possible. My friend and I had to queue but only for around 5 minutes before we were let in. The exhibition, needless to say, was stunning and each room we entered literally took our breath away with the displays of all Dior’s most iconic dresses and clothing.
The Atelier
There were timeless pieces, to the more modern clothing to admire, and something to suit everyone’s tastes. Each room had it’s own theme which was highlighted by Christian Dior’s eloquent quotes.
My favourite rooms were the one inspired by the garden and the ballroom, where the decor helped to create a more magical experience.
The Garden Room
“After women, flowers are the most divine of creations” - Christian Dior 1954
Christian Dior was fascinated by gardens and flowers from his early childhood. He used to enjoy sketching outside in his garden, which inspired his fashion designs as well as fragrances for the brand.
The Ball Room:
“A ballgown is your dream, and it must make you dream” - Christian Dior 1954
Christian Dior drew on his love of historical costumes, to inspire his design of ballgowns. Designing pieces for fancy events and parties, allowed him to indulge in his haute couture creations.
Nicole Kidman’s dress for the Great Gatsby Cannes Film Festival premiere - 2013
Natalie Portman’s dress in the Miss Dior campaigns. Designed by Raf Simons - 2012
The dress on the left was worn by Gisele at the Met Ball - 2006
Junon Dress, Haute Couture Autumn/ Winter 1949
Dress worn by Jennifer Lawrence for the New York Film premiere of Mother, September 2017, by Maria Grazia Chiuri
“Evening clothes are the most glamorous and fascinating things a woman can have, as the evening is the time when you escape from the realities of life”. Everything from the embroidery, embellishments, craftsmanship, fabrics, all screamed haute couture luxury.
Numero 53 Dress, Haute Couture Autumn/ Winter 2018 by Maria Grazia Chiuri
Koh-I-Noor Dress, Haute Couture Autumn/ Winter 1996 by Gianfranco Ferre
Trianon Dress, Haute Couture Autumn/ Winter 2017 by Maria Grazia Chiuri
Matatarse Ensemble, Haute Couture Autumn/ Winter 1997 by John Galliano
Dress worn by Zhang Ziyi for the Rome Film Festival, November 2011, by John Galliano
Dress created for Princess Diana who wore it to the New York’s MOMA to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the House of Dior. Designed by John Galliano 1996.
“In the world today, haute couture is one of the last repositories of the marvellous” - Christian Dior 1957
This was one of his last famous quotes before passing away in the same year, at the height of his fame.
Embroidered silk dress with Swarovski crystals, Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2004 by John Galliano
Christian Dior’s life is just as fascinating as his collections, and here are some things about him which I found particularly interesting:
Born in 1905 - into a wealthy Normandy Family
His family wanted him to become a diplomat but Dior pursued his love of art and fashion.
He initially set up a gallery with the funding and support of his family, but with the death of his mother and brother and onset of financial crisis (the Great Depression), his gallery had to be closed.
Dior began to design for other fashion brands and at one point designed dresses for the wives of Nazi officers, as did other fashion houses such as Lanvin and Ricci.
His sister Catherine served as a member of the French Resistance but was captured by the Gestapo and sent to concentration camp until her release in 1945.
In 1946, Dior decided to start his own fashion house, with the backing of Marcel Boussac (known as the richest man in France at the time) and his first collection was born in 1947.
Christian Dior’s iconic “Bar” Suit from the “The New Look”
Initially there was a negative reception to his collection, however after World War II and wartime shortages ended, he soon became popular due to his female flattering designs, compared to the boxy shapes of the era.
Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel once threw shade by stating “look how ridiculous these women are, wearing clothes by a man who doesn’t know women, never had one and dreams being one.
Christian Dior and all his successors have since surpassed everyone’s expectations and have created an iconic and timeless brand.
Dior sadly died in 1957 (just ten years after the launch of his brand) at the premature age of 52. Though it was stated he had died of a heart attack in Italy, how exactly he died, has been questioned on numerous occasions. Some say he suffered a heart attack whilst choking on a fish bone, some say whilst playing cards but others, said it was due to a “strenuous sexual encounter”. The true reason for his death remains a mystery to this day.
Either way, Christian Dior died at the height of his fame and managed to leave behind a legacy of his talent and vision for his brand. He celebrated women’s figures, often making it more curvaceous - opposite to what fashion houses seem to do in the modern era - and literally created art in the fashion world.
RIP Dior, 1905-1957
Princess Margaret
Dress designed for and worn by Princess Margaret for her 21st Birthday.
My Favourites
Christian Dior V&A exhibition Jardin Fleuri Dress by Maria Grazia Chiuri
Christian Dior V&A exhibition Jardin Fleuri Dress by Maria Grazia Chiuri
Ange Blanc Ensemble, Haute Couture Spring/ Summer 2018 by Maria Grazia Chiuri
Dress worn by Rihanna at the Cannes Film Festival May 2017, by Maria Grazia Chiuri
Dress worn by Lup ta Nyong’o for the Cannes Film Festival, May 2018, by Maria Grazia Chiuri
Dior for the Paris Haute Couture Autumn/ Winter 2012 collection by Raf Simons
Match Ensemble, Haute Couture Autumn/ Winter 1989 by Gianfranco Ferre
Cantharis Dress, Haute Couture Spring/ Summer 1995 by Gianfranco Ferre
Antinea Dress, Haute Couture Autumn/ Winter 1965 by Marc Bohan
Numero 49 Ensemble, Haute Couture Autumn/ Winter 2018 by Maria Grazia Chiuri
Soiree Intime Dress, Haute Couture Autumn/ Winter 1960 by Yves Saint Laurent
Look 28 Dress, Haute Couture Spring/ Summer 2015 by Raf Simons
Écarlate silk faille afternoon dress, Haute Couture Autumn/ Winter 1955 collection
Numero 29 Ensemble, Haute Couture Autumn/ Winter 2018 by Maria Grazia Chiuri
New Juno Dress, Haute Couture Spring/ Summer 2017 by Maria Grazia Chiuri
Éventail de vos hasards, silk tulle dress, Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2018 by Maria Grazia Chiuri - This amazing dress was created as for the final look of the Shanghai presentation of her Spring/ Summer 2018 collection.
Final Thoughts:
This was such a beautiful collection, I visited twice. I might even go a third or fourth time depending on my mood, as this exhibition is on until the 1st September. Not only are the dresses and collections magnificent (needless to say!) but the way in which the V&A presented the collection was not only clever, but added to the atmosphere and beauty of the dresses.
There were clearly too many favourites to mention, throughout the decades, but I have to say that my favourite Director for the House of Dior has to be Maria Grazia Chiuri, with Gianfranco Ferre a close second. I think they managed to carry on Christian Dior’s vision of what he wanted his brand to be; timeless, feminine, womanly and luxurious.
If ever there was a quirky, bold or downright bonkers design, I could almost bet my life that it would be a John Galliano piece and I was correct 100% of the time. It’s like he sashayed into the House of Dior and demanded that the assistants gathered all the fabrics, textures, prints they could lay their hands on, and some! You have to give it to him, his pieces are certainly memorable - whether for good or bad reasons. But he did create some more classical, beautiful pieces, namely the dress created for Zhang Ziyi and Princess Diana for the 50th Anniversary of Dior.
This was a truly special and unforgettable exhibition and I’m thankful to have witnessed it.
Until next time xo
—————————————————————————
All pictures on this post are my own.
